Day Tripping: Farm/Agricultural Tourism

Brushing the Donkey

The second week of winter break is almost halfway over and I don’t know where the time has gone!  We’ve stuck closer to home this past week.  On Monday, we had an afternoon out with donkeys.  France, like many other  countries worldwide, is pushing agricultural tourism as a way to help farmers earn extra income and show off their knowledge. Any working farm or ranch can participate.  Sometimes agriculture tourism means a gîte or a farm bed-and-breakfast, sometimes it means a “petting zoo”-type experience with farm animals, other times you can even help out on the farm–the possibilities depend on the farmer and his/her domain.  L’Âne de Gouttière, located between Dol-de-Bretagne and Combourg, is one example in the greater Saint Malo area.

Baa, Baa White Sheep

Frédéric and his family raise their sheep for both meat and wool.  While the sheep provide their principal livelihood, they also have chickens, rabbits and donkeys.  In 2005, they decided to branch out into agricultural tourism and started include donkey rides and themed visits.  (You can also learn about how yarn is made.  They dye and sell their own yarn.)  For 25€, we rented a donkey for the afternoon.  Frédéric and his daughter were there to greet us and teach us Donkey 101.  While he was getting our donkey, the girls went exploring around the farm.  The sheep, especially the baby lambs, immediately caught their attention.  Once our donkey was tied up and waiting for us, Laura and Elise went straight to work brushing our donkey Oliver.  I was surprised that they were both so at ease with Oliver considering that he was at least twice their size.  You can choose to take your donkey out alone for the morning or afternoon (map with suggested itinerary provided) or have Frédéric go with you (25€/2 hours).  We took the plunge and decided to go out on our own.   After our crash course in how to “pilot” a donkey–including the all important Rule No. 1 Do NOT let the donkey stop to graze or you will never go anywhere–we were off!

Snack Time by the Moulin (Mill)

Their farm is minutes from a natural reserve and an ancient mill that has been nicely maintained (perhaps restored?).   While his map provided a nice loop that older children could easily have done, we chose to go to the mill and back.  As only one child at a time can ride the donkey, we were moving at a slower pace than most people.  Most of the walk is on hiking trails.  A small portion is on back roads, however, we only met a tractor on our walk.  As much as the girls enjoyed brushing and cleaning Oliver, riding him was another matter.  I’m not sure if it was being so far off the ground or being on an animal but neither girl lasted long on his back.  We went with friends.  Their son who is the same age as Laura loved riding the donkey and spent most of the hike on Oliver’s back.  We brought backpacks to carry a snack but your donkey comes with saddle bags.  A donkey can easily carry up to 40 kilos of baggage without a problem!

While you wouldn’t plan your family vacation around a day trip here, if you are spending time in the area with your kids, this would make a nice half-day trip and a change from ocean/water-based excursions.  For the more adventurous and those looking for a short break, they will help you plan a 2-5 day hiking trip with your donkey!  If you’ve ever wanted to walk to the Mont Saint Michel with a donkey carrying your belongings this is your chance!  Each days’ hike ends with you spending the night in a local B&B or farm.  I think for now an afternoon is more than enough for the girls given their age.  One day, however, maybe we will walk to the Mont!

Day Tripping: Mémorial de Caen

Mémorial de Caen on a Windy Winter Day

If you’re looking for one museum to go with your trip to the D-Day beaches, the Mémorial de Caen is it!  While the entire D-Day area is full of little museums all of which promise to add to your visit, the Mémorial de Caen surpasses them all in terms of quality and scope (and price but more on that later).  You can easily spend the entire day here and not run out of things to see.  The Mémorial’s scope isn’t limited to D-Day and WWII, but the majority of 20th century history from the ashes of WWI through the Cold War and the fall of the Berlin Wall.  Ambitious to say the least but the museum succeeds in placing the D-Day story (and WWII itself) in a larger historical context.

The Mémorial is open from 9-19:00 for most of the year.  If you’re not coming by bus or as part of a tour group, the easiest way to get to the museum is by car.  Take Exit 7 off of the Caen beltway/ring road and follow the well-marked signs.  Parking is free.  You can also take the n°2 bus from the city center to “Mémorial.”  As a side note, for those using public transportation, the Mémorial also offers packages combining a visit to the Mémorial with a guided tours of the British and American D-Day beaches.  While a bit pricey, I would recommend them based on the simple fact that visiting the D-Day beaches without a car is an uphill battle due both the size and scope of the battlefield as well as the dearth of public transportation.

Non-Violence Statue outside of the Mémorial

The Mémorial is not cheap!  Adults tickets cost 18.80€ during the tourist season (and are only slightly reduced the rest of the year).  Children, defined as those 10-25 years old, cost 16.30€.  Younger children are free.  Once you’ve gotten over the sticker shock, the museum is worth the money.  Families, with at least one child over the age of 10, should buy the Family Pass ticket which allows museum access for the entire family for 48€.   Audio guides cost an additional 4€, however, I wouldn’t spend money on one here.  Due to the graphic nature of some of the exhibits, children under 10 are not encouraged to visit the museum.  Instead, the museum offers free on-site daycare with the purchase of a ticket.  Babies must be at least 3 months old to be accepted by the daycare.  We dropped the girls off and received a pager to carry with us during our visit.  Staff can contact you in case of any problems by buzzing you.  Laura had no issues, we received a “buzz” to come and pick up Elise who refused to be left and wouldn’t stop crying.  While strollers are not allowed in the museum, the museum loans baby carriers to parents who want to bring their infant with them.  We ended up toting Elise around the museum with us.  For older visitors, the Mémorial also loans wheel chairs and we passed several people being pushed through the museum.

WWII Bomber and Ticketing Area

There are three main exhibit areas at the Mémorial which can roughly be broken down into 1918-1945, the Cold War and finally, “Opinion Spots” which deals with issues in today’s changing world. A half day is enough to see the main exhibit which takes you from the aftermath of WWI all the way through the bombed out ashes of WWII as well as the more locally focused D-Day/Normandy Campaign one.  As you are following a chronological path through the museum, it is not easy to leave the “official path” easily–make sure you take advantage of the toilet facilities near the ticketing area before you start your visit.  The main exhibit starts with you literally spiraling downward into the museum and through the 1920s and 1930s into fascism and war.  Displays combine artifacts, pictures, sound and video to bring events to life in front of you.  Texts/Commentaries are written in French, English and German.  (Members of the staff are also bi- or trilingual.)  You will do a lot of reading as you go through the museum so make sure to bring your classes.  There are ample spots to sit down.  Several mini-theaters integrated into the visit show actual footage of events and mini-documentaries (the one on the Rape of Nanking was particularly moving).  You continue to move forward in time as you make your way through the museum.  Two short films are also regularly shown throughout the day–D-Day, a 15-minute film, plays every half hour from 10-17:30 while Hope, 20 minutes long, is shown ever hour on the hour from 11-17.

To get an idea of the pace/time it takes to get through the museum, walking through the WWI-WWII and D-Day exhibits took us all morning.  We ate lunch in the Mémorial café (simple sandwiches), watched the D-Day film and then power-walked the Cold War.  We could easily have spent more time on the Cold War.  The reality though was that the morning was already a rather intense experience and we were all ready for something a little lighter (and Elise’s patience was wearing thin).  We did not even get to the Mémorial’s exhibit area devoted to current events (human rights, climate change, censorship, etc.) or Nobel Peace Prize winners.  Even if we didn’t visit the Peace Gallery, I do appreciate the fact that a museum which deals with such bloody history has dedicated part of its space to the search for peace and a better world.

As it was freezing cold, we did not take advantage of the Mémorial’s gardens either.  For those visiting in warmer weather, I think they would make a nice break in the middle of your visit.  There are three gardens–the American Garden, the British Garden and the Canadian Garden–dedicated to France’s main liberators.  The gift shop, however, did attract my attention.  There are a multitude of books, DVDs, souvenirs and, most importantly, postcards available for sale.  Prices are reasonable and the selection is good.   Whether at the end or beginning of your D-Day trip, the Mémorial de Caen deserves a spot on your agenda.  You won’t regret your time within its walls!

Stamp Love–Belated Valentine’s Day

2012 French Heart Stamps

I seem to be perpetually late with my holidays–or at least with posting about them!  Valentine’s Day is not as big a holiday here as in other countries.  You will not find little kids exchanging Valentine’s cards at school for example or colorful pink and red themed candy at the supermarket.  There isn’t a specific food or desert associated with it as is the case with so many other holidays here either.  Valentine’s definitely more of an understated, adult romantic, chocolate and jewelry affair here.  It is also an occasion to send a little bit of love in the mail!

Who doesn’t like getting a love letter?  And why not with a themed Valentine’s stamp to go with it?  The USA has been issuing “Love” stamps since 1973 and last year’s floral heart block is a favorite of mine.  While “love” themed stamps have been around for years, France was the first country to issue heart-shaped stamps in 1999.  The first stamp was simply heart-shaped; when it turned out to be an instant success, La Poste started the tradition of having fashion designers create the annual heart stamp(s).  Yves Saint Laurent, Christian LaCroix and, now, Adeline André have all designed stamps for the annual series.  This year’s stamp, the “Patch d’Amour” is designed a bit like a tattoo.  The stamp is a clear sticker and the background depends on the surface on which it is applied.  Since the first French heart-shaped stamp, other countries have also issued their own versions.  I have heart-shaped stamps from Japan and Slovenia as well.

If you would like a postcard with some “love,” send me a note or leave a comment with your email in it so that I can get your address.  I have five lonely hearts here looking for some love!

EDIT: All stamps have been accounted for

French 2011 Heart Stamp (Maurizio Galante)

French 2008 Heart Stamp (Franck Sorbier)

French 2009 Heart Stamp (Emanuel Ungaro)

Japanese Heart Stamp 2011 (Proceeds go to the Earthquake Fund)

Slovenian 2011 Heart Stamp

USA 2011 Love Stamps

Japan 2011 Heart/Friendship Stamps

Japan Hello Kitty 2009 Summer Greetings Stamp

Japanese Definitive Happy Moments Stamp

Another Sculpture

Guardian Deity of Children (Hourinji, Kyoto)

After this weekend’s naif sculptures in Saint Malo, I found myself drawn to this postcard today.  I love the beauty in this sculpture nestled among the hydrangea but I confess I know nothing about it.  Is it part of a shrine?  A garden?  Is it even meant to be Art?  What does it represent?  What does it represent to me?  Sometimes I like to go to an exhibit and just look at the art–no audio guide, no commentary, no background reading, just me and the art.  I go back and forth on whether I have a more profound experience when I’ve read up on the artist (or choose to listen to the official exhibit commentary) or when I just let myself be surprised.  I think the answer depends on my mood–well-structured commentary can bring a painting or sculpture alive in ways that you might miss on your own.  Symbolism has grown and changed over the centuries and what might have been obvious to a 16th century viewer, for example, might be less clear to today’s amateur art lover.  For centuries European art and Christianity went hand-in-hand.  A basic knowledge of the Bible and Catholic saints can give many a painting a little more weight and background story.  But then again, does it really matter that you know that the man dying in agony covered in arrows is Saint Sebastian to make the painting more poignant? I’m not sure.  (Can you tell that A. and I made a game out of “name that Saint” on our last visit to the Louvre?)   I deal with this question even more so when looking at non-Western art where my background knowledge is either lacking or simply non-existent.  I don’t have an answer and I was never meant to be a philosopher!

(As for this card, as soon as I read the caption and looked at the message, it did mean more to me!  I was pregnant with Elise when I received it and the message sent wishes for a healthy baby.)

Day Tripping: Rothéneuf’s Rock Sculptures

Angry Husband and Cheating Wife

France is freezing right now but that’s no reason not to get out for a quick trip if you’re nicely bundled up!  If you’re visiting Saint Malo and want to see some original artwork head over to Rothéneuf.  Rothéneuf is only 5km from Intra-Muros (Saint-Malo’s walled city) and makes a quick side trip.  Come and admire Abbé Fouré’s rock sculptures!

Abbé Fouré (1839-1910) was a French priest and “naif” artist.  After a stroke left him partially paralyzed, mute and deaf at 55, Fouré ceased active parish work and retreated to Rothéneuf.  There he devoted his life to prayer and carving.  Living as a quasi-hermit, Fouré turned to sculpture and carved the granite cliffs of Rothéneuf into over 300 different statues.  Working for over 25 years, Fouré created his own testament.  Today the rochers sculptés de Rothéneuf as they are known in French let you can see the entire world through his eyes.  Angry husbands and cheating wives (see above–I can’t help but laugh), sea dragons, angels, animals and even Lucifer himself emerge from the granite.   You reach the sculptures via steps carved into the cliff.  The sculptures are “rough” like the sea and have been battered by the elements since their creation.  (Do not expect to see a Michelangelo here!)  Erosion has already claimed several of Abbé Fouré’s creations.  Fouré also carved a number of wood sculptures, however, the majority were lost in a fire.

Sea Monster with the Last of the Rothéneuf Family

The Abbé also took care to carve the story of the Rothéneuf family into stone.  The Rothéneuf family, for whom the area is named,  were a prominent local buccaneer family from the 15th-18th century.  Not all of the family came to a happy ending–Fouré carved the last of the family being devoured by a sea monster.  Laura and Elise loved climbing among the sculptures and pointing out the ones that caught their attention.  You don’t need to spend a lot of time here to appreciate Fouré’s oeuvre.  If you’re looking for a nice way to end your afternoon or a short visit to start your evening, the sculptures are a good choice.  Admission is 2.50€.  Even if you come to the sculptures by hiking the free coastal paths, the person manning the admission booth will insist that you pay to continue for the stretch that includes the sculptures.  There is a small free parking lot near the sculptures for those coming by car.  The site is open from 9-20:00 during the summer and from 10-17:30 the rest of the year.    You can also buy a booklet at the entrance which gives additional information on each of the statues and what it represents.  As half the fun is trying to decide what everything is, there’s really no need to buy it unless you’re looking for a souvenir and your cameras batteries are dead!

Angry Husband and Cheating Wife

Sea Monster with the Last of the Rothéneuf Family

Character Cuteness

Harajuku Snoopy Town Postcard

I let Elise pick today’s Japanese postcard.  I figure she needs a little extra attention as she is now officially a social pariah–the chicken pox has struck again!  She chose Snoopy!  While Snoopy is as American a beagle as they come, he and the rest of the Peanuts gang have found a second home in Japan.  (Snoopy is also quiet well-known here in France too!)  The country that has given Hello Kitty, Pokemon, and the word “kawaii” to the world has adopted a bit of character cuteness from the other side of the planet.

When you listen to journalists talk about ranking popularity and influence today, they tend to cite Facebook and Twitter statistics.  I don’t necessarily disagree with this approach but when judging the popularity of characters, (worldwide) merchandising power seems a more appropriate gauge for me.  My friend Evita visited Snoopy Town, the official Peanut’s store, located in Harajuko, Tokyo and sent me this postcard.  If you’re looking for Peanuts Power, Evita assures me that this is where to go!  Postcards, stuffed animals, slippers, mugs, and all sorts of limited time specials are available to tempt your wallet.  I’m not sure I would dare take the girls anywhere nearby for fear of them wanting to buy everything!  Not visiting Tokyo?  Osaka, Kagoshima and Sapporo all have stores too!  All together there are ten official Snoopy stores open in Japan.  You can indulge in enough merchandising fun to ruin your monthly budget and then some!

2009 50th Anniversary French Astérix and Obélix Stamps

What French characters do you know?  Basing my response on merchandising (i.e. what can I easily buy for the girls), Astérix and Obélix, Babar and the Barbapapa all come to my mind.  That said, I’m not sure how well-known they are outside of France/Europe.  Astérix and Obélix, for example, are household names here–the adventures of the two Gauls and their village during the Roman “occupation” of France make for fun reading.  Their comic book adventures are classics (and have been translated into over 100 languages) and have been turned into both cartoon and live-action movies.  They even have their own theme park here in France yet I have never come across a single Astérix display or toy in the USA.  Babar the King of the Elephants might be losing ground to Elmer but he remains popular.  Finally, the Barbapapa look set to remain part of France’s favorite home-grown characters.  The Barbapapa family was created in the 1970s in children’s book form.  The stories follow the adventures of the Barbapapa family (a blob-like family) as they try to fit into the human world.  The books spawned a TV series and yet more merchandising opportunities for its creators.  I think they’re also enjoying riding a wave of “nostalgia” trendiness as the children who grew up with them are now (becoming) parents too!

Barbapapa Family (The Pink one is the Father)

Perhaps the most globally well-known French character, however, is the Little Prince from Le Petit Prince by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry.  While not a character in the same sense as the others (the Prince comes from a more literary world), the Prince has made the same jump to merchandising success.  The online store sells just about everything you could possibly put the Prince’s name or logo on.  In addition you can find Le Petit Prince as a movie, a TV series, and even a musical!   Unlike the children’s characters I mentioned above, I know the Little Prince has a worldwide following.  A quick search on google also shows the Prince’s popularity with hits showing sculptures and exhibits about the Prince all over and not uniquely in Europe.  The Little Prince even has its own museum in Hakone, Japan!  Opened in 1999 by Mrs. Akiko Torii, the museum tells the story of both Saint-Exupéry and his most famous character.  I’ve never truly understood the appeal of the Little Prince so it’s easy for me to resist the marketing sirens but Snoopy on the other hand….let’s just say we should all be glad that I don’t live near a Snoopy Store!  Elise would probably be happy but my wallet wouldn’t!  Time to give her some more cream….

 

Traveling with Babies and Toddlers 101

I’ve started planning our summer vacation and a day or weekend trip to Jersey for this spring.  As you might know, I love traveling and getting out as much as our budget will let us.  You don’t have to go far to get a breath of fresh air in your daily existence–day-tripping is a great way to break up your weekend routine!  Don’t let anyone tell you it’s impossible to travel with kids until they’re bigger.  Yes, it does take a bit of planning, a little forethought and a healthy dose of flexibility but it shouldn’t stop you.  Here are some of my thoughts on traveling with babies and small children in general:

1. First and foremost, do not expect your children to give up their routines (for example nap  time(s), meals, snacks) just because you are on vacation or out for the day.  Work around their biological rhythms and you will have a happier trip!  If your child is like mine, they will be grumpy and unpleasant if they miss their nap.  I won’t even tell you how much fun mine are if they’re not fed on time!  My kids have always been early risers and eaters.  We visit our must-see sights early when the girls are at their best.  Eating early means fewer people in the restaurant, making you less of a ‘nuisance’ and increasing your chances of coming across a helpful waitress/owner.  It also means that you might be able to slip in a quick lunchtime visit to a museum or exhibit while everyone else is out eating!  Head back to the hotel for a break or plan to drive in the afternoon while your kids sleep.  A. and I have taken turns watching the girls sleep while the other gets out for an extra visit or a more adult tourist experience.
   

   Improvised Hotel Nap Time

2. If you’re breastfeeding, you’re in luck, you have one less thing to carry with you!  If not, most restaurants or cafés will heat your bottle or baby food if you ask politely.  Always have crackers or cereal or some other small snack for your child with you.  Sometimes despite your best efforts, you lose track of time when you’re out–my kid’s stomachs on the other hand are set better than a Swiss watch!  It is much easier to pass your child a cracker, than have them melt down in front of hundreds of strangers because they’re hungry.  Picnicking is also a great option when the weather is nice and you won’t have to worry about your kids not wanting to stay seated in a restaurant.
3. Diapers and baby food can be bought (almost) everywhere.  Pack the minimum that you need, you can always buy more during your trip.  When you’re out for the day, bring a day pack–your child can get by without that perfect organic cleanser for one day and you will be much happier without the extra weight!  As long as you have a diaper pad, you can change a child anywhere.  Make sure you have water and sunblock with you at all times.  Small children cannot tell you that they’re thirsty, you need to make sure that they are drinking enough.  Dehydration and/or sun burn can ruin your day out but both are easily avoided with a little effort.
4. While traveling by car you can bring your big pram or stroller but remember it will be with you everywhere and what might be nice for a simple stroll around the neighborhood is much less pleasant in a museum or on cobbled stones.  A simple folding stroller is your best ally if you want to push your child around or fly anywhere.  (I have seen more than one angry parent have their big and bulky stroller turned away at the airport or have to pay extra baggage fees due to its size.)  Even if you have a stroller, invest in a baby carrier with good back support–it will give you more options; you can carry a baby anywhere.  Think of the Paris metro with a baby carrier or with a stroller, then imagine all the stairs.  Enough said.
   

   Happy Baby, Happy Mommy

5. If you’re flying transatlantic, call your airline and reserve a bassinet for your baby.  I have never been able to do this online.  I have always had to call–don’t expect to be able to reserve one the day of your flight at the airport.  Even if you pay to speak with an agent, it is worth the money.  Your child can fly on your lap until they turn two but 8 hours is a long time to hold an infant especially if there are other options available.  (The same ask-ahead philosophy is also true with hotels and bed and breakfasts.  We tend to stay at family run B&Bs when we travel in France.  With one exception, I have had owners go out of their way to find a crib for us to use by simply asking if they took babies.)
6. Take advantage of children’s discounts and ticket prices.  Babies and toddlers often ride public transport for free as long as they are on your lap.  Museums and most major sites also let little children in for free.  Don’t underestimate your children–Elise surprised all of us by being fascinated by the Bayeux Tapestry last spring!  Laura will look at paintings and see details that we have missed.  While their attention span might not be the same as an adults, with a bit of flexibility the entire family can enjoy the arts.
7. Remember that your child, no matter how small, might have their own interests.  The highlight of our trip to London for Laura, at the time 9 months old, was playing with the leaves in Hyde Park.
   

   Playing in the Park

   Parks and playgrounds might not be standard sightseeing fare but they are wonderful for little kids.  Running around, making as much noise as they want, and touching everything in sight is the perfect counterpart to museums and more formal visits.  Kids are also great ice breakers–we’ve gotten great recommendations on what to see/where to eat with small children from local people out at the park with their kids.  This last-minute local information is priceless and you will never find it in a tourist guide.  Street performers are free entertainment for kids–find a café, enjoy a drink and let them enjoy the performance!

8. Know when to call it a day!  Sometimes you might feel like going to one more sight, spending 5 more minutes at the museum, etc but your child is tired and beginning to lose patience.  You will not enjoy whatever it is you still want to do with a tired, cranky child in tow.  Have your partner take the kids back to the hotel while you keep going, return home together, take a break–you can always come back again another time.  Don’t push a baby or a toddler over their limits, everyone loses.  Remember you’re on vacation!  Happy travels, happy memories!